East Macdonnell Ranges

Today we drove out the other side of the MacDonnell Ranges. We stopped at Ellery Big Hole Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Resort.
We decided to camp at Ormiston Gorge.
In the morning we did the walk up over the top of the gorge which gave us some fantastic views.

Ormiston Gorge

Ormiston Gorge

Ormiston Gorge

Ormiston Gorge

West MacDonnell Ranges

We set out today to check out the West Macdonnell Ranges and plan to stay at Ross River Resort camp site. We stopped at the usual places along the way - Jessies Gap and Emily Gap.
When we got to Ross River Resort we couldn't believe how quiet the place was. The campground is big and there only a half dozen of people camped there.
We set up and then drove back down the highway looking for firewood for the night.
We cooked our dinner on a fantastic fire that night.
Next morning we decided to check out the walk at Trephina Gorge.
The walk starts by climbing up over the gorge cliffs and ends up coming back down onto the river where you walk back along it.
There were small streams of running water in the river which were great for pulling the walking boots off and cooling the feet.

Setting Up Camp At Ross River Resort

Ross River Resort

Dinner On The Fire

View Of West Macdonnell Ranges From Trephina Gorge

Stream Feeds Into Trephina Gorge

Nice to Cool The Feet

Trephina Gorge

Alice Springs

We left Coober Pedy at around 7am so that we could some serious kilometres under our belt today. The plan was to make it to Alice Springs.
We stopped at Kulgera for lunch and bumped into one of the young families that we got talking to at Farina on the Oodnadatta Track. Oh forgot to mention we saw them at the caravan park in Coober Pedy as well. The two families had parted company when we saw them at Kulgera.
The rest of the day was pretty un-eventful as we forged our way up the highway to Alice Springs.
We got there in reasonably good time and booked into the caravan park. It was quite warm, so we made a bee line to the pool for a dip.

Caravan Park in Alice Springs

Coober Pedy

We woke up from our night in Oodnadatta. There really isn't a lot to do or see in Oodnadatta and I was getting pretty anxious about the stones getting in the brake hub, so I just wanted to head for Coober Pedy.

Road to Coober Pedy

We packed up ready to move on and I decided that I would empty the stone from the brake hub once again.
We decided to have breakfast in the Pink Roadhouse before re-fuelling for the 320 kilometre drive to Coober Pedy.
The flies were really getting to Pauline and I so we bought some fly nets from the roadhouse.
The road into Coober Pedy took us through some seriously barren desert landscapes.

Desert Landscape

It was what I would imagine the moon surface to look like.
About half way we encountered a vehicle with a flat tyre.
It was a young mum with three kids. The oldest boy was attempting to put the spare wheel on the car.
He and his mum had managed to get the car jacked up and I arrived in time to get the spare on for them.
The fly nets came in handy. The flies were thick.
We continued on into Coober Pedy and booked into a caravan park for the night.

Vince the mechanic's house

That afternoon we took the Tvan to a mechanic to see if he could figure out why the stones were getting into the hubs. However, he couldn't...
I took the Tvan back to the caravan park and set up for the night.
The following day we checked out the town and went through the Opal Museum.

The Breakaways

Damn Flies!!!

Sunset at the Breakaways

Oodnadatta - The Pink Roadhouse

Once again, Pauline and I were very casual about getting up out of bed and once again, everyone had left the camp site and we were pretty much the only ones left. There were some people coming in to have a look around and there was also a group of young people on a tour that made the stop for a quick dip in the spa.
We had breakfast and packed the camper and then decided to have a look around the place. We checked out the museum and on the way back had one last look at the spa. The tour group were just leaving, but there was a young couple still left in the spa.

 

Coward Springs Natural Spa



 

These guys were in a ute that was kitted out with bullbar, spotlights and mudflaps. It was the kinda ute you see the country boys driving around in. They were very friendly and revealed the they were doing a quick trip from country Victoria, to Kings Canyon / Ayres Rock and back to Victoria again - in 2 weeks. They were on the return leg and only had a few days to get back.
Once we had finished chatting, we went back to the car and hit the track again.
It was interesting to see the water laying around the place. As I previously mentioned, there had been plenty of summer rain and there was rain through these parts only a couple of weeks before we got here.
William Creek was only about 75 k's down the track, so we figured we would get there just before lunch time. I was looking forward to having lunch and a beer in this iconic desert pub.
Not far down the track from Coward Springs we stopped to take a photo of another small body of water.

Water in the desert

 

After a bit of a walk around we got back into the car and started to drive off. As we took off, I could hear a noise coming from the camper trailer. I got Pauline to drive forward slowly while I walked along side the camper to check it out. To my horror there was a metallic grinding noise coming form the wheel or axle.

I parked the car and began to take the wheel off to investigate. Once the wheel was off I spun the hub for another listen. After spinning it a few times, I figured we had a stone inside the brake hub that was getting stuck between the hub and the brake shoe - or at least I hoped that was it.

Once the hub was off my thoughts were confirmed. It was the smallest bit of rock that was causing this horrendous noise. I tipped it out and proceeded to put the hub back on. Lucky I had a rubber mat that I could lay out on the ground. The mat was handy to stop the outer wheel bearing from getting dirt in it, and also allowed me to work without getting too dirty.

 

 

 

 

Time for a quick look!

 

Taking brake hub off Tvan

 

A bloke and his son stopped to see if I needed a hand. They were contractors installing sat phones in remote communities.

Wheel back on and we were back on the track.

 

We arrived in William Creek at about 1:00pm.

William Creek Pub

 Pauline and I had some lunch in the pub. It was amazing to be there. I've seen a heap of photos of this pub on the internet and now we're finally there.

William Creek Pub

 

After lunch we promptly got back out on the track. Oodnadatta was still 200 kilometres away. I didn't wanna get there too late. Besides, I could see dark clouds in the distance and I didn't want to be on the track if it started to rain.

 

Along the way to Oodnadatta we stopped to replenish our firewood supplies and to take photos of Algebuckina Bridge. The bridge is a lot bigger than I imagined.

Gathering Firewood on the Oodnadatta Track

 

 

Algebuckina Bridge

 

 

 

Coming into Oodnadatta the storm clouds were all around us. I hadn't been able to get radio reception so I wasn't sure what the weather was going to do. Turns out there wasn't any rain in any of the clouds.

I noticed that another stone had made it's way into my brake hub on the trailer as we entered the Pink Roadhouse caravan park. Pauline made a great dinner that evening and we sat around a fire and had a couple of drinks before retiring.

Oodnadatta Pink Roadhouse



 

Coward Springs - via Oodnadatta Track

The next day was Easter Monday and we planned on traveling a shorter distance, so there was no need to get up early. Pauline and I hate getting up early and only do so, if it's absolutely necessary.
After breakfast and packing up the Tvan, we stopped at the historical Farina town site which consisted of ruins, of old stone buildings. It was fascinating to think that this place was a busy little settlement back in the late 1800's and early 1900's.

Farina Ruins

We had a good look around the town site and we were quite happy to get back inside the car to escape the flies. As the morning heated up, the flies moved in and were in full swing by about 10:00am. So far the weather was great. We were looking at temps of around 30 degrees during the day and cooling off around 10 - 15 degrees over night.

Marree was only 55 k's down the road and that's where the Oodnadatta and Birdsville Tracks start.

Because I burned our fire wood at Farina, I needed to get some more in case there wasn't any around Coward Springs.
The country side was pretty low lying on the way to Marree and we crossed many creek crossings that had dead wood laying about. So now was the time to stop and get some...

Sawing firewood

My little 30cm Ozito chain saw was perfect for the small branches laying on the road side. I've had it for a few years now and it's the best 100 bucks I've ever spent!!!
With the firewood lashed to the back of the Tvan, we could now have a nice fire when we stop at Coward Springs. I'm guessing that firewood is pretty hard to find between here and Coward Springs as it was becoming evident that we were entering sand dune country - the land was getting bare.

Got our firewood for tonight!

 

Sand Dune Country 





We reached Marree around 10:30am and the excitement was starting to kick in knowing that we were about to embark upon one of Australia's iconic outback treks - the Oodnadatta Track.

There was an intersection just before we came into Marree and it was where the Oodnadatta and Birsdville tracks start.

 

Road into Maree

 

Even though it was only early we had to have a beer at the Marree pub before we left town.

 

Marree Pub

 

Everywhere we walked in Marree we walked on a mixture of dirt and salt which was forming a thin crusty layer on the surface. The Australian outback has received high rainfall this summer and this region is the collection point from tributaries that feed in from Queensland, New South Wales, Northern Territory and South Australia. The lake Eyre basin covers a sixth of the continent.

Lake Eyre historically, is said to flood about 1 in ten years. However, recent summer rainfall in the south western parts of Queensland has seen it flood the last couple of years in a row. I'm expecting to see some water in the lake which will be a real thrill for Pauline and I.

 

Time to re-fuel and make our way out on the Oodnadatta Track.

 

Marree Service Station

 

Surprisingly, Lake Eyre has a yacht club!!!

 

 The start of the Oodnadatta Track

The Oodnadatta Track from Marree to William Creek is littered with things to see that makes for an interesting drive.
There are many water run-off dips that you need to enter very slowly because they can potentially be washed out. Each one has a yellow sign with "dip" written on it. It was a constant source of amusement to see what people have added to the signs.
Some examples are cheese n "dip", skinny "dip" and countless more.
The sidings were great points of interest but there were other things that made the trip interesting:

 

 

 

Then we came across Lake Eyre full of water.

 

Lake Eyre

 


We stopped to take in the awesome sight of this inland sea and then continued down the track, bound for Coward Springs.
Along the way we took a small detour to check out the mound springs.
The mound springs are points in which water bubbles to the surface from Australia's great artesian basin. The great artesian basin covers around 23% of our continent over Queensland, Northern Territory, New South Wales and South Australia. It's all of  Lake Eyre basin and more...
Water percolates to the surface and mixes with salt and then slowly forms a crusty mound over time.
Over hundreds of years they grow in size. Some are as high as four or five metres.

 

 

 

Spring water bubbling to the surface

 

Mound Springs

 

 

Although we have only travelled 188 k's today, it has taken nearly all day to arrive at Coward Springs.

 

Coward Springs Campground Entrance

 

The campground is just off the main track and you enter through a gate. There is a caretaker, but the fees are put into an honour box at the gate.

The camp is quite an oasis in the desert with it's shady camp sites under the oak trees.

Coward Springs is an old Ghan railway siding like the rest, but this one has a couple of buildings that have been preserved. The caretaker resides in the old station master's house and another building beside the old line has been turned into a museum. There is also a natural spa that's been lined with sleepers. The spa spills out into the surrounding land and has created a wet land over the years.

The spa was once a bore that was sunk to service the steam trains. The bore head broke off due to corrosion from the salty spring water and it was left pour out of the ground. Hence, it has been made into a spa for travellers today.

The only down side was the flies. But they soon went once the sun went down.

 

The natural spa

 

Wetland in the desert

 

The old railway station

 

Great shady camp sites.

Showers

 

Coward Springs is a great place to stop overnight.  There were toilets and showers with the shower being heated with a "donkey" hot water system.

That night we burned our firewood in the fire pit by our camp site and cooked a BBQ.

Another fantastic day on the Oodnadatta Track.



Farina (SA) - via Hawker

Easter Sunday and we were up reasonably early - surprisingly. We hit the road and headed for Port Augusta. Before we got too far down the track I stopped off around Poochera and sawed some Mallee trees up for fire wood. I wasn't expecting to find any wood up in the desert country.
We pulled into Port Augusta just before lunch time and re-stocked with fresh fruit and vegies after losing what little we had at the quarantine checkpoint in Ceduna the day before.
We decided to get out of Port Augusta to have lunch, so we pressed on up through the mountains 'till we reached Hawker. Hawker is a great little town and is the gateway to the Flinders Ranges - an area we explored a couple of years previously.
We stopped at Hawker and Pauline made some chicken sandwiches for lunch. It was an effort getting the sandwich into the mouth without a dozen flies adding to the cuisine.

 

After lunch, we were on the road again headed for Farina campground. We stopped along the way to look at some aboriginal rock art.

 

I was good to get out of the car and stretch. There was a small walk to get to the rock art - about a kilometre or so.

 

Once we were back on the road it was about making Farina before dark.

We stopped at Leigh Creek for some fuel and the temperature was getting notably warmer the further inland we drove.

Flinders Ranges in the distance

 

Leigh Creek was bigger than we expected and was nice and tidy. It's been built to house the workers in a nearby coal mine.

We stopped just before Leigh Creek to take a couple of snaps of a creek bed with a train bridge and got to see a coal train at the same time.

 

 

 

One of the fascinating things about the central Australia desert country is the lush river gums that line the creek systems. They make for good firewood and excellent shady camping spots.







On the way out of Leigh Creek we hit a creek crossing a little too fast and there happened to be a large wash out on the other side. Lucky the Tvan has such great suspension otherwise everything in the camper would have been smashed.
The bitumen finished about 40 k's further up the road at Lyndhurst.
We would be driving on dirt roads in the desert for the next 700 k's to Oodnadatta and then back out to Coober Pedy.
We got to Farina late in the afternoon, set up the Tvan and lit up the firewood that I chain-sawed earlier in the day.

 

 

Farina would have to be one of my all time favourite over night camp spots.

It was once a thriving little town of 55 people. It had a pub, bakery and other bits and pieces. It's main reason for existing was because of it's railway station which was situated on the old Ghan rail line that used to run from Adelaide to Darwin. In fact all of the old town along the Oodnadatta Track were there to provide water for the old steam trains.

 

The camp area is part of a low lying area next to a creek which obviously has water not too far under the ground. The station owners have set the camp ground up with fire drums and picnic tables. There also a shower toilet with hot running water from a "donkey" hot water system. The donkey system is simply a 200 litre drum of water that you light a small fire under. Although we carry a shower and portaloo with us, the Farina facility was very handy after another long day on the road.



Donkey hot water system

 

We shared the camp site with two friendly young families that were travelling around oz for 12 months. We found ourselves bumping into one or both of these families for the next few days.

 

 

As we do on every opportunity we can, we took a drink to a small hill lookout to watch the sun set. Watching the sun set with a beer and wine is one of the highlights of our day when travelling the outback.

 

We cooked over the fire that night and rested for the next leg on the Oodnadatta Track.