The next day was Easter Monday and we planned on traveling a shorter distance, so there was no need to get up early. Pauline and I hate getting up early and only do so, if it's absolutely necessary.
After breakfast and packing up the Tvan, we stopped at the historical Farina town site which consisted of ruins, of old stone buildings. It was fascinating to think that this place was a busy little settlement back in the late 1800's and early 1900's.
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| Farina Ruins |
We had a good look around the town site and we were quite happy to get back inside the car to escape the flies. As the morning heated up, the flies moved in and were in full swing by about 10:00am. So far the weather was great. We were looking at temps of around 30 degrees during the day and cooling off around 10 - 15 degrees over night.
Marree was only 55 k's down the road and that's where the Oodnadatta and Birdsville Tracks start.
Because I burned our fire wood at Farina, I needed to get some more in case there wasn't any around Coward Springs.
The country side was pretty low lying on the way to Marree and we crossed many creek crossings that had dead wood laying about. So now was the time to stop and get some...
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| Sawing firewood |
With the firewood lashed to the back of the Tvan, we could now have a nice fire when we stop at Coward Springs. I'm guessing that firewood is pretty hard to find between here and Coward Springs as it was becoming evident that we were entering sand dune country - the land was getting bare.
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| Got our firewood for tonight! |
Sand Dune Country
We reached Marree around 10:30am and the excitement was starting to kick in knowing that we were about to embark upon one of Australia's iconic outback treks - the Oodnadatta Track.
There was an intersection just before we came into Marree and it was where the Oodnadatta and Birsdville tracks start.
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| Road into Maree |
Even though it was only early we had to have a beer at the Marree pub before we left town.
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| Marree Pub |
Everywhere we walked in Marree we walked on a mixture of dirt and salt which was forming a thin crusty layer on the surface. The Australian outback has received high rainfall this summer and this region is the collection point from tributaries that feed in from Queensland, New South Wales, Northern Territory and South Australia. The lake Eyre basin covers a sixth of the continent.
Lake Eyre historically, is said to flood about 1 in ten years. However, recent summer rainfall in the south western parts of Queensland has seen it flood the last couple of years in a row. I'm expecting to see some water in the lake which will be a real thrill for Pauline and I.
Time to re-fuel and make our way out on the Oodnadatta Track.
Marree Service Station
Surprisingly, Lake Eyre has a yacht club!!!
The start of the Oodnadatta Track
The Oodnadatta Track from Marree to William Creek is littered with things to see that makes for an interesting drive.
There are many water run-off dips that you need to enter very slowly because they can potentially be washed out. Each one has a yellow sign with "dip" written on it. It was a constant source of amusement to see what people have added to the signs.
Some examples are cheese n "dip", skinny "dip" and countless more.
The sidings were great points of interest but there were other things that made the trip interesting:
Then we came across Lake Eyre full of water.
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| Lake Eyre |
We stopped to take in the awesome sight of this inland sea and then continued down the track, bound for Coward Springs.
Along the way we took a small detour to check out the mound springs.
The mound springs are points in which water bubbles to the surface from Australia's great artesian basin. The great artesian basin covers around 23% of our continent over Queensland, Northern Territory, New South Wales and South Australia. It's all of Lake Eyre basin and more...
Water percolates to the surface and mixes with salt and then slowly forms a crusty mound over time.
Over hundreds of years they grow in size. Some are as high as four or five metres.
Spring water bubbling to the surface
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| Mound Springs |
Although we have only travelled 188 k's today, it has taken nearly all day to arrive at Coward Springs.
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| Coward Springs Campground Entrance |
The campground is just off the main track and you enter through a gate. There is a caretaker, but the fees are put into an honour box at the gate.
The camp is quite an oasis in the desert with it's shady camp sites under the oak trees.
Coward Springs is an old Ghan railway siding like the rest, but this one has a couple of buildings that have been preserved. The caretaker resides in the old station master's house and another building beside the old line has been turned into a museum. There is also a natural spa that's been lined with sleepers. The spa spills out into the surrounding land and has created a wet land over the years.
The spa was once a bore that was sunk to service the steam trains. The bore head broke off due to corrosion from the salty spring water and it was left pour out of the ground. Hence, it has been made into a spa for travellers today.
The only down side was the flies. But they soon went once the sun went down.
The natural spa
Wetland in the desert
The old railway station
Great shady camp sites.
Showers
Coward Springs is a great place to stop overnight. There were toilets and showers with the shower being heated with a "donkey" hot water system.
That night we burned our firewood in the fire pit by our camp site and cooked a BBQ.
Another fantastic day on the Oodnadatta Track.
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